<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" ><channel><title>Cody Hatch Photography &#187; Tutorials</title> <atom:link href="http://www.codyhatch.com/topics/tutorials/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.codyhatch.com</link> <description>Landscape, travel and stock photography from Utah, the American west, and elsewhere.</description> <lastBuildDate>Sun, 30 Oct 2011 18:01:58 +0000</lastBuildDate> <language>en</language> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator> <item><title>Lighting Matters</title><link>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/lighting-matters/</link> <comments>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/lighting-matters/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Fri, 30 Apr 2010 02:47:00 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Cody</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category> <category><![CDATA[lighting]]></category> <category><![CDATA[polarizing filter]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.codyhatch.com/?p=443</guid> <description><![CDATA[I often get asked how much altering I do to my photos within Photoshop due to the high contrast and saturated colors in my photos. I&#8217;m somewhat of a purist when it comes to the editing of photos so I do very little to my photos in Photoshop aside from slight adjustments to contrast, saturation and sharpening &#8211; all things that were commonly done within film darkrooms. The keys to the nice colors and contrast within photos really boil down to two things: lighting and the use of a polarizing filter to reduce glare. I&#8217;m not going to address polarizing filters in this post but wanted to leave a quick note about lighting. Landscape lighting is best in the soft light of morning or evening. Light at those times has a warmer glow to it (technically it is a cooler temperature light but I&#8217;ll save that for a future post) and lights objects from the side, exposing textures and increasing meaningful contrast. As I have worked to improve my photography I have become somewhat of a lighting bigot and don&#8217;t even think it worth shooting if I can&#8217;t get good lighting and dramatic skies in my photos. Of course, that means I take fewer photos [...]]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I often get asked how much altering I do to my photos within Photoshop due to the high contrast and saturated colors in my photos. I&#8217;m somewhat of a purist when it comes to the editing of photos so I do very little to my photos in Photoshop aside from slight adjustments to contrast, saturation and sharpening &#8211; all things that were commonly done within film darkrooms. The keys to the nice colors and contrast within photos really boil down to two things: lighting and the use of a polarizing filter to reduce glare. I&#8217;m not going to address polarizing filters in this post but wanted to leave a quick note about lighting.</p><p>Landscape lighting is best in the soft light of morning or evening. Light at those times has a warmer glow to it (technically it is a cooler temperature light but I&#8217;ll save that for a future post) and lights objects from the side, exposing textures and increasing meaningful contrast. As I have worked to improve my photography I have become somewhat of a lighting bigot and don&#8217;t even think it worth shooting if I can&#8217;t get good lighting and dramatic skies in my photos. Of course, that means I take fewer photos but I&#8217;m okay with that. Waiting for the right lighting is more than worth it.</p><p>A great example of a photographer who utilizes dramatic lighting in his photos is <a href="http://www.davidnoton.com">David Noton</a>. The lighting makes the photo.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/lighting-matters/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> </item> <item><title>Canon AF-On Button</title><link>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/canon-af-on-button/</link> <comments>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/canon-af-on-button/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2010 04:27:41 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Cody</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Canon]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.codyhatch.com/?p=399</guid> <description><![CDATA[Up until recently I had been a recomposing monkey when taking portraits or family photos. See, when using auto focus (AF), I like to use the center focus point, focus on what I&#8217;d like to be sharp, and then recompose the shot. The problem that crops up though, is that once I recompose and press the shutter button halfway down, the AF locks on something else (the new spot where the center focus point is), ruining my previous focus setting. To compensate for the problem I had been pressing the shutter button down halfway and holding it while I recomposed the shot, but that leads to a problem where I have to redo all those steps every time I press the shutter. What a pain in the neck, especially if my camera&#8217;s on a tripod. So, as a result, I had been searching for a solution to this problem and ran across the AF-On button, which allows me to separate the AF functionality from exposure and thus allows me to lock the AF so I am free to recompose the shot. I&#8217;ve been experimenting with using the button and am very pleased with the freedom it&#8217;s offering me. Here&#8217;s what I now do: Zoom to [...]]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Up until recently I had been a recomposing monkey when taking portraits or family photos. See, when using auto focus (AF), I like to use the center focus point, focus on what I&#8217;d like to be sharp, and then recompose the shot. The problem that crops up though, is that once I recompose and press the shutter button halfway down, the AF locks on something else (the new spot where the center focus point is), ruining my previous focus setting. To compensate for the problem I had been pressing the shutter button down halfway and holding it while I recomposed the shot, but that leads to a problem where I have to redo all those steps every time I press the shutter. What a pain in the neck, especially if my camera&#8217;s on a tripod. So, as a result, I had been searching for a solution to this problem and ran across the AF-On button, which allows me to separate the AF functionality from exposure and thus allows me to lock the AF so I am free to recompose the shot. I&#8217;ve been experimenting with using the button and am very pleased with the freedom it&#8217;s offering me.</p><p>Here&#8217;s what I now do:</p><ol><li>Zoom to appropriate distance</li><li>Position center focus point on area of subject I want to be sharp</li><li>Press the AF-On button with my thumb to lock AF</li><li>Recompose shot to desired framing</li><li>Press shutter button for exposure and to trip shutter</li></ol><p>As a result of my new process, I can now lock the AF and freely recompose shots without having to move my camera around every time I trip the shutter. I&#8217;ve also configured one of my camera&#8217;s custom settings as my own &#8220;portrait mode&#8221; with the appropriate AF-On custom function enabled (and configured another custom setting identical to this one but with AI Servo enabled). Canon has a great <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&amp;articleID=2286">description of the settings in their Digital Learning Center</a>. Here is a quote from the site regarding the back-button auto focus options:</p><blockquote><p>0: Metering + AF start (note: there’s no slash here)</p><p>Factory-default setting. You activate camera’s meter and AF by pressing shutter button half-way down. Rear AF-ON button also does same if it’s pressed, so you don’t get the benefits of removing AF activation from the shutter button when this option is set.</p><p>1: Metering + AF start / AF stop</p><p>AF is still at shutter button. Pressing the rear button will actually LOCK the focus; potentially useful if you shoot a lot of moving subjects in AI Servo AF and prefer to activate AF with a conventional half-press of shutter button. Focus is unlocked by removing thumb from back-button.</p><p>2: Metering start / Meter + AF start</p><p>Back-button AF activation. Shutter button no longer activates AF, but of course fires the shutter. Metering is continuously updated — if you shoot a sequence of pictures, the camera takes a fresh meter reading for each one. There’s no locking of exposure, unless you separately press the AE Lock button (this last item is not possible on some EOS models).</p><p>3: AE Lock / Metering + AF start</p><p>Back-button AF activation. Difference between this setting and option 2 directly above is that when you press the shutter button half-way, your exposure is locked and won’t change until you pull your finger off the button entirely. Thus, if you shoot a sequence of pictures in any auto exposure mode, the exposure setting used for the first shot is used for each subsequent shot. Can be useful if you were using back-button AF to easily lock focus and shoot a series of portraits, where you wouldn’t expect lighting to change.</p><p>4: Metering + AF start / Disable</p><p>Similar to setting “0” above, but now, the camera’s rear AF-ON button is disabled. AF activation is at the shutter button. Convenient if you’re worried about accidentally pressing the back-button and don’t want to use back-button AF.</p></blockquote><p>I use option #2 but I highly recommend visiting the Canon website for a more detailed description of the functionality.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/canon-af-on-button/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item><title>Difference Between Pretty Scenes and Good Photographs</title><link>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/difference-between-pretty-scenes-and-good-photographs/</link> <comments>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/difference-between-pretty-scenes-and-good-photographs/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2009 00:23:58 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Cody</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category> <category><![CDATA[landscape photography]]></category> <category><![CDATA[lighting]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.codyhatch.com/?p=130</guid> <description><![CDATA[Good photographs are difficult to come by. Pretty scenery, at least in Utah, is much easier to find. What&#8217;s the difference, you might ask? In my opinion, it boils down to a few items: Good composition Excellent lighting Vibrant colors Strong contrast My family and I recently took a trip down to the Provo River area to play in the river and scout some photo locations. I&#8217;ll use a couple of photographs I took while down there (pretty scenery but not good photos) to illustrate the difference between a pretty scene and a good photograph. Here are the photos. This first photograph of the mountains near the Sundance Ski Resort has some elements of a successful composition but is missing some key elements that would make it a good photograph. It has nice lines running from right to left in the contours of the grass and has a dramatic sky, something that is often times difficult to capture, but, due to the angle at which I took this photo, as well as the wide angle lens used, the mountains are far less imposing than they are in real life. In real life, they are rugged and imposing but this photo doesn&#8217;t do them justice. Another [...]]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good photographs are difficult to come by. Pretty scenery, at least in Utah, is much easier to find. What&#8217;s the difference, you might ask? In my opinion, it boils down to a few items:</p><ol><li>Good composition</li><li>Excellent lighting</li><li>Vibrant colors</li><li>Strong contrast</li></ol><p>My family and I recently took a trip down to the Provo River area to play in the river and scout some photo locations. I&#8217;ll use a couple of photographs I took while down there (pretty scenery but not good photos) to illustrate the difference between a pretty scene and a good photograph. Here are the photos.</p><div id="attachment_131" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 560px"><img class="size-full wp-image-131" title="Sundance, Utah" src="http://www.codyhatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/sundance.jpg" alt="Mountains at Sundance Ski Resort - Utah" width="550" height="386" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Mountains at Sundance Ski Resort - Utah</p></div><p>This first photograph of the mountains near the Sundance Ski Resort has some elements of a successful composition but is missing some key elements that would make it a good photograph. It has nice lines running from right to left in the contours of the grass and has a dramatic sky, something that is often times difficult to capture, but, due to the angle at which I took this photo, as well as the wide angle lens used, the mountains are far less imposing than they are in real life. In real life, they are rugged and imposing but this photo doesn&#8217;t do them justice. Another composition problem is that there isn&#8217;t any sort of foreground subject to add depth to the shot, again diminishing the imposing nature of the mountains, which actually tower over the foreground grass and trees.</p><p>The lighting is probably the weakest element of the photo. The shot was taken in the early afternoon when the sun is high in the sky, creating a harsh and flat light. As a result, there is little depth or texture in the photo. Lighting, more than anything, will make or break a photo.</p><p>Lastly, the photo has some vibrant colors but, due to the flat lighting, is sorely lacking contrast.</p><div id="attachment_132" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 396px"><img class="size-full wp-image-132" title="Provo River, Utah" src="http://www.codyhatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/provo-river.jpg" alt="Provo River, Utah" width="386" height="550" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Provo River, Utah</p></div><p>This photo of the Provo River was fun to take because it was pretty but, like the other, fails to be a good photograph. The composition fails on a couple of levels. The shot does a good job of including some foreground, though it isn&#8217;t very interesting. The line of the river bank leads the eyes into the photo, which is nice, and the rule of thirds was followed, but the sky lacks drama. The river water is too polarized and thus blends into the surroundings too much (not enough reflection), and the flowers are too small. Perhaps being lower to the ground would have helped make the flowers more interesting? I&#8217;m not sure because of how flat the foreground is.</p><p>Again, like on the previous photo, the lighting is flat and harsh, diminishing the depth I tried to achieve with the foreground. Also as a result of the harsh lighting, the contrast and color vibrance are seriously lacking, making for a boring photo.</p><p>As you can see, these were both beautiful locations, providing fantastic scenery, but due to various limitations &#8211; mostly lighting &#8211; the photos taken don&#8217;t make compelling photographs.</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.codyhatch.com/tutorials/difference-between-pretty-scenes-and-good-photographs/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> </channel> </rss>
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